Vauxwall - Some interesting new developments on the London Climbing scene

This week we have been chatting to @vauxwall  on Twitter about an exciting new bouldering centre due to be opening early in 2014. They didn’t have much information to share with us but the basics of the centre are:

100m from Vauxhall tube

400m+ climbing surface

Training area

Chalk extraction

Air con!

Planning permission was applied for and has been granted and as far as we can tell work is underway! We believe The Lakeland Climbing Centre are involved in the project but this hasn’t been confirmed.

It’s great to hear that the London climbing scene is expanding and we can’t wait to find out more about the centre. The project clearly fills the gap left by the loss of the original Arch at London Bridge, which was shut to make way for station re-developments back in Oct-12.

We have been promised by Vauxwall that they will give us more info as the project progresses so watch this space for more information!!

London Climbing Guide – Climb and Social

Saturday 21^st September saw the very first London Climbing Guide - Climb and Social at the Castle Climbing Centre in Manor House. Being the first one it’s kind, it’s always difficult to gauge the make-up of the day but it went fantastically!

We arrived at 2:00 and after signing in and changing we hit the wall. Mike and myself were a little over ambitious on our warm up attempting an overhanging 6a+ in the main hall just opposite reception. This was quickly switched for a more relaxed 5b, next to it.  Magda and Rene proceeded to make good use of the walls just behind us, going for some pretty hefty looking climbs. Justin and Polona joined us a little later on after sampling the treats of the upstairs café.

After a good period of time in the main hall we split up and kept on climbing for about an hour. Tired and in need of refreshments and fresh air we headed out into the garden for a breather and a well-earned cup of tea.

Break over we cracked on, heading to large room upstairs where some good top-roped action and bouldering went on.

As the group started to disperse after a few long hours climbing, a few of us headed back downstairs to finish ourselves off on a very tricky 6c, which at the end of the day was a tough feat!

Exhausted but pleased with our efforts we headed to the pub for a cheeky refreshment and headed for home.

A great day of climbing and a big thanks to all that attended, make sure you keep an eye out for next months climb and social dates. It would be great to see you!

London Climbing Guide Visits Fairlop Waters Bouldering Park

On another very sunny climbing excursion this Monday 22nd July 2013, the London Climbing Guide headed for the enigmatic Boulder Park in the grounds of Fairlop Waters Country Park. Fairlop Waters Boulder Park is situated in the North East of London a short walk from Fairlop tube station on the Central Line, making it easily accessible from anywhere in London.

The boulder park is one of those unique London locations that's a marvel to behold and more importantly climb, so we did. Oh and the best thing is it's completely free to use!

Our day started off relatively calmly with a 10:30 meet at Liverpool Station, once we had topped up our Oyster Cards we where on our way. The tube took us about 30-35mins on the Central line and apart from the baking hot weather our journey was relatively uneventful.

As we left Fairlop Tube Station we took the short walk to the park about a half-mile away.

On arrival at the park we fuelled up with some drinks and snacks (no hearty meals available unfortunately), from the golf course clubhouse near the entrance and headed to the boulder park.

After a short walk, which skirts the waters, we arrived at the boulder park. We took stock, had a look around, dropped our bags off and donned our shoes and climbing gear. We had the place to ourselves which was an added bonus.

There is an impressive array of boulders in the park, nine distinct boulders in total. All with different elements, features and types of climbing available. 


The Arches

We started on The Arches. Which is the largest of the first 3 boulders in the park, offering some climbing in the shade on the back side of the boulder, a welcome break from the sweltering sun. The Arches rise to about 12ft and offers interesting, varied and challenging climbs, under the arches and along over the brow of the top. The routes range from a Font 2 up to about a Font 5, which is challenging enough when warming up.

The Prominent Prow

After about 15mins of tackling most of the climbs The Arches had to offer, we moved on to the Prominent Prow - with its lizard like feature, which offered a tricky overhanging section graded at a Font 5. This sections needs some powerful climbing up the left side of the prow and on to the tip of the ' Lizards nose'.

Enormous Roofed Block

We then took on the largest boulder of the park, the aptly named Enormous Roofed Block. With its slabbed front face, which easily reached 15ft high.

The boulder offered a lot of different routes up to about a font 6a - on some of the over hanging sections. We would advise you to only attempt these sections if you are an experienced climber and you have the safety of bouldering mats.

The Enormous Roofed Block also has some large horizontal cracks running around it, which are great for practicing those lower level traversing skills and building up strength and technique.

Other Boulders of Note 

And Finally....

Visiting the Fairlop Waters Boulder Park really was a fantastic day out and we couldn't recommend a visit any more highly to all climbers in London. There is more information on Farilop Waters Boulder Park on the London Climbing Guide site so check it out! for more information.

Happy Climbing

Outdoor Boulders at the Castle – and their summer party

At our last visit to The Castle we spotted some great new developments appearing outside. Three new outdoor boulders are being erected at the foot of the iconic building, and we can’t wait to give them a go!

It’s hard to tell what’s in store for the 3 boulders, as 2 are in a metallic red state but knowing the Castle, we have confidence that the finished articles will be both fun and challenging! It's good to see The Castle pushing the envelope and adding some well needed outdoor climbing spaces to the London Climbing scene.

The new outdoor boulders will be open to the public for the first time at the “2013 Castle Garden Party” on the 21st of July 2013 from 12pm -7pm, and they are promises it’s going to be a BIG one! With the amazing weather we’ve been having recently, we are hopeful the sun will be shining and the music pumping.

Other things happening at the parteeeee, include the return of the death defying highline between 2 of the Castle's towers!! A DYNO comp on one of the new boulders, plus a great selection of food, drink and entertainment! 

So go along and get involved ☺

New addition to the London Climbing Scene?

Today saw six female climbers Greenpeace scailing Europes tallest building the Shard, in a protest against oil and gas drilling the Arctic - http://iceclimb.savethearctic.org/

Greenpeace said the climbers used a combination of traditional mountain climbing techniques,  and others used by commercial building climbers and some free climbing.

Each stage of the climb would require the lead climber to free-climb a section of the building which is no mean feat. All the climbers were wearing harnesses, meaning they would have been relatively safe but this is by no means an advisable climb.

We wish them a safe climb and hope they make it back in one piece and without too much of a back lash from the authoritise.

We're not sure it will catch on but we hope that the Shard does become an new additon to the London Ice Climbing scene. I know we'd be first in line to give it a go!

Best Climbing Wall In London?

Well it’s official and It’s The Arch , hurrah!

In a survey of over 250 London climbers conducted by the London Climbing Guides Facebook Page, we can officially say we have an answer to the question “What is the best climbing wall in London”?

Topping the poll was the superb Arch 2 (A.k.a. The Biscuit Factory), A great triumph given the fact that the Centre only opened in March 2012 and whilst being a vast and comprehensive Centre only caters for bouldering, whereas other Center’s have roped and lead climbing in their arsenal. We wonder whether the legacy at The Arch at London Bridge has helped out here? 

2nd place went to the ever-popular Castle Climbing Centre (gaining 23% of the votes) beating its closest rivals to the 2nd place. No surprise given the climbing legacy the Castle has but we wonder how much they would have liked to take the top spot!

3rd place went to the Westway narrowly beating 4th placed Mile End by 1 vote. A great show from these 2 centres, who received some great praise from one of the respondents with “Mile End.....synthetic wall.....real people.”

Credit to the White Spider (10% of the votes),The Reach (8%) and Craggy Island 2 (6%) still showing a good number of response and votes overall but losing out to their more established rivals

May be the biggest surprise was the fact that Urban Ascent received no votes, hopefully not a reflection of the overall attitude of the London Climbing Community.

That’s it then, a massive round of applause to the team at The Arch, for building and running an absolutley sterling centre, you thoroughly deserve the top spot!

The London Climbing Guide Visits Swanage

 It goes without saying that London isn’t blessed with mountains and rocky-crags. But that doesn’t mean we had to travel for days to get our outdoor climbing fix, as the beautiful sea cliffs of Swanage, in Dorset, were only 2 hours away on the train.

Last week the London Climbing Guide did just this with a sunny and adventurous trip to the noteworthy climbing areas along the Swanage coast – Including Guillemot Ledge, Dancing Ledge and the secluded quarry area of Winspit. The weather was fantastic and the seas calm, giving us the opportunity to visit some areas only accessible on good days.

Our first visit was to the picturesque Guillemot Ledge just south of Langton Matravers. Access to the base of the cliffs meant a blind abseil down to the boulder fields at sea-level.  After attempting a multi-pitch route, which the guidebook labelled a HVS trad route (although as with all subjective grading its hard to know). After failing both lead attempts we reconvened and moved down the "beach" and managed to successfully climb another multi-pitched route out.

With having spent a few hours trad climbing, and with the day progressing, we decided to head over to the abandoned quarry area of Winspit and finish the day off. The disused quarry is set back from the sea and offers some varied and challenging bolted sport climbing. After tackling several different routes on either side of the quarry, we headed for home.

As a realistically accessible location from London in a day, the wonderful Swanage coast is a must and we heartily recommend an excursion to any and all climbers.